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Peninsular pilgrimage

England

Catalonia

Peninsular pilgrimage with Lomo

Got the opportunity to join in on a three week journey from Lisbon up north to Santiago de Compostella in Galicia (northwest part of Spain). As I've been to Portugal twice the last years I've seen quite a bit of it, and was recruited as a guide (not that anyone listened much to my advice).

After a few days I managed to drop my Nikon F60 on a pousada stone floor, resulting in parts of the lens falling off which left it unusable. As a result my Lomo had to make do as a primary camera, as which it exceeded all expectations. From an earlier dud rate of 60% it now was about 10%, mostly as a result of misjudging the angle, forgetting to set the focus lever or being too drunk to hold the camera steady.

Lisbon

Lisbon tram

One of the great tram cities of the world, jumping on a passing carriage is a great way to explore the city. One of them took us to a Sagres Beer Festival inside the castle walls on the hillside overlooking the city centre.

O.D. on fado

Having been in Portugal twice before without going to a fado bar, we ascended the stairs of the Almada to find a place recommended by a local guide. Turned out business was slow, with only two other tourist couples dropping in. We must have stood for most of the turnaround that night; as well as part of the entertainment - I ended up playing with the fado orchestra, and the others singing Bellman for the locals and some Swedish tourists.

Peniche

Cliffs of Peniche

The city is rather forgettable, but the cliffs north of town are spectacular! Looking at the pictures now I can't believe myself climbing down them with only one usable arm and living to tell about it.

Chicken Run

After Lisbon we went up to the coastal town of Peniche, which wasn't terribly interesting apart from the magnificent limestone cliffs north of the city. We couldn't get a hotel room in town but found some apartements within walking distance of the cliffs. The chickens were busy trying to escape through a hole in the fence, much to the dismay of the owner.

Electric horseman

In the evening, the pension owner (a dead ringer for Anthony Quinn) would mount up his horse and cruise the streets for customers.

Self portrait with Lomo & broken arm

Taken in bathroom of pension in Peniche, after climbing the cliffs. No, I don't really have red hair...

Art workshop

Exhibition in a former prison, used by Salazar for keeping political dissidents in check. Not sure if there is a connection here...

Fort at Berlenga Island

Come stay at the lovely monastery of Berlenga. All modern conveniences except water, light, electricity (apart from a generator used to run the coffee maker), clean rooms and fresh air. For a little extra you will be able to sample authentic sewage smells funneled directly into your bedroom. Also feel free to explore the island, as long as you don't mind getting attacked by seagulls or getting a £500 fine for straying off the non-well marked footpath.

Porto

Porto by night

Shot from the bridge on the way to the port bars in Villa Nova da Gaia. Ordering a chorizo sausage with my Sagres I was surprised to find the waitress bringing a bottle of 100% proof alcohol to table. This was not meant for drinking however, but to light up the terracotta pan used for grilling the sausage. The next day featured a magnificent fireworks display in commemoration of the thousands who drowned trying to cross the river on a floating bridge during Napoleon's invasion.

Food? No. Lomo? Yes.

Wandering the riverfront of Porto you find yourself looking straight into people's bedrooms from street level. This dog was apparent blasé about the whole situation.

Dogfight

Just outside Norwegian consulate in Porto, returning from a nice bacalao dinner . Not sure if it was the same dalmatian as in the previous picture.

Macdonald's in Porto

Friendliest place on Earth. "You want fries with that Poland?"

Santiago de Compostella

Brave new bikini world

Obviously inspired by Fritz Lang's Metropolis. Found this shop window while looking for a record shop that didn't close at 2pm on Saturday. Went to an open-air concert the night before with a local singing act called Anubía, which I liked so much I decided to get their record. Finally gave up the shopping district, but found it in the tacky souvenir shops among pilgrim t-shirts and cheap ocarinas. After all, being in last years European Capital of Culture I'm not surprised that even the street peddlers prefer to promote local high-quality music instead of what tourists would be likely to ask for.

While at it I also picked up some other CDs by local bagpipe babes Susana Seivane and Cristina Pato, plus the Celtic supergroup Milladoiro (sort of a Galician Chieftains). Sexy young bagpipers seems to be a local trend, something I don't mind at all...


Praza da Quintana

Spent the last day in Santiago on my own, as the others went off to A Coruña. Having finished a long stroll in the city I slumped down on a cafe table by the cathedral square, where they were rigging a scene for tonight's concert. After a large crepe with ice cream and a glass of Carlos I brandy I spent an hour looking at the contrasting sights of this facinating city - old clergymen bound for mass passing roadies in Nirvana t-shirts carrying monitors and portable toilets. My Lomo was resting on the cafe table, and I managed to reach out and press the trigger as the priest was shuffling by. Suddenly it struck me that if I ever had had a perfect day in my life, this would probably have been it. Finally making it to this wonderful city had made me really happy for the first time in a long while.